by Xinhua writers Zhang Yisheng, Lu Hao and Ma Yujie
GUANGZHOU, Jan. 5 (Xinhua) -- Dai Jiangxiao, a Cantonese in her 40s, opened an Asia Sarsae and took a huge gulp of the brown soda. With its unique flavor sharply evocative of her childhood, the drink hit the spot.
Living in Guangzhou, capital city of south China's Guangdong Province, Dai said she regarded Asia Sarsae, a sarsaparilla soft drink similar to root beer, as a taste of the city.
The iconic drink in Guangzhou has a strong herbal and minty flavor like Fengyoujing, a Chinese herbal remedy to relieve pain. While it has yet to rise to prominence throughout China, it has captured the hearts of many local residents.
The carbonated drink, first rolled out in Guangzhou in 1946, extracts ingredients from Ilex asprella, a traditional Chinese medicine used to "clear heat" -- a notion in traditional Chinese medicine. People believe that "heat" trapped within the body can cause many ailments, especially in places with hot and humid climates.
In the days when air conditioners were not widely affordable, residents in Guangdong had a habit of drinking chilled Asia Sarsae to refresh themselves on sweltering summer days.
"I still remember my friends and I swilling the soda with a straw from a white plastic bag in the 1980s," recalled He Wenfeng, CEO of Guangzhou Xph Asia Beverage Co., Ltd., which produces the drink. "Glugging the drink is a typical moment from the summers of my childhood."
However, Asia Sarsae soon fell out of favor as international beverage giants like Coca-Cola and PepsiCo entered into the Chinese market in the 1990s.
"Asia Sarsae nearly disappeared in the late 1990s and early 2000s," said He.
Asia Sarsae was not the only domestic drink brand losing its market share. Once served at state banquets, Beibingyang, a soft drink brand rooted in Beijing, was barely seen in the 1990s. Another Chinese cola brand Tianfu, previously the country's top-selling soft drink in the 1980s, saw its market share plunge to only 1 percent in 2005.
But domestic drinks have made a comeback over the past decade, after successful re-branding.
"The rise of Asia Sarsae was boosted by consumers' nostalgia for their childhood and a brand-new image of the old drink," said He, adding that a total of 80 million bottles of Asia Sarsae were sold in 2019 and the sales volume further surpassed 100 million bottles in 2020.
"The taste of Fengyoujing is the soul of our drink," said He, adding that while keeping the taste unchanged, the company has improved the formula of the drink to make it healthier.
Asia Sarsae has rebranded itself to appeal to young consumers by offering diversified products, such as low-calorie soda and fruit-flavored soft drinks, and participating in online shopping festivals.
The company has also expanded its cooperation with convenience stores and famous Cantonese restaurants like Tao Tao Ju to lure more young customers, he noted.
"I rushed to buy an Asia Sarsae when I rediscovered the drink on a shelf," said Dai, a big fan of the soda. "The taste awakened my memories of school 20 years ago."
Other traditional Chinese soda brands also staged a comeback in the 2010s. Beibingyang achieved profitability only two months after it resumed production in 2011. Hankow Er Chang, a new beverage brand born from an old-time classic in Wuhan, was catapulted into the limelight by marrying trendy cultural elements with eye-catching designs.
"The revival of domestic brands not only helps remind people of their childhoods but also wins the hearts of the young generation through continuous innovation," said He. "It is also an important channel for people, especially foreigners, to get a taste of the city." Enditem
