攀岩将在今天迎来奥运首秀，如果你以前没怎么看过攀岩比赛，奥运的赛事安排和规则恐怕会让你一头雾水。今天就让我们用一篇文章来说透如何看懂东京奥运会的攀岩比赛，赶紧在比赛正式开始前来补补课吧！
Tokyo Olympics: Sport climbing makes its debut - here's all you need to know
Climbing is the last of the new Olympic sports to make its appearance at Tokyo 2020, with competition getting under way on Tuesday.
运动攀岩是最后一项在 2020 东京奥运会上亮相的新奥运项目，比赛将于本周二开始。
Mountain biking, skateboarding and surfing have already made their debuts, so now the focus switches to the walls in the Aomi Urban Sports Park.
此次奥运会的新项目：山地自行车、滑板和冲浪已经结束比赛，现在大家的焦点集中到了奥米（Aomi）城市体育公园的墙壁上。
Here we take you through everything you need to know, from how the sport works to which stars you should keep an eye on.
本文将带您一起了解运动攀岩这个新奥运项目，从这项运动的比赛形式到您应该关注哪些明星。
What is sport climbing?
什么是运动攀岩？
It's an event that neatly embodies the revised Olympic motto 'faster, higher, stronger, together' - with competitors climbing walls using fixed hand and foot holds in three disciplines.
这项赛事巧妙地体现了修订后的奥林匹克格言“更快、更高、更强、更团结”——参赛者在三个项目中使用手和脚按照设定的路线攀登墙壁。
When is it taking place?
比赛时间
The men's competition will start on 3 August, with finals on 5 August. The women's event begins on 4 August, with finals on 6 August.
男子比赛将于8月3日开始，8月5日进行决赛。女子赛事于 8 月 4 日开始，决赛于 8 月 6 日举行。
Which events are in the Olympics?
奥运会中的攀岩有哪些比赛项目？
There are two gold medals up for grabs in Tokyo, with combined events for both men and women.
此次东京奥运会将决出两枚攀岩金牌，分别是男子和女子全能。
Forty climbers will be in action - 20 per competition, with each nation allowed a maximum of two people in each.
40 名运动员将参加比赛——每场比赛 20 名，每个国家最多允许两人参加。
Climbing events usually include three separate disciplines - speed, bouldering and lead - but for the sport's Olympic debut they have been pulled together into bumper combined events.
攀岩项目通常包括三个独立的项目——速度赛、抱石赛和难度赛——但在此次奥运会中，将综合这三项的成绩，最终决出男女各一枚金牌。
At the 2024 Paris Games, speed will be a separate event, alongside a joint bouldering/lead competition.
在 2024 年巴黎奥运会上，速度赛将设为一个单独的项目，同时还有一项综合抱石和难度的比赛。
How do the three disciplines work?
三项攀岩比赛的规则是什么？
Speed: Two competitors race against each other to the top of a 15m high wall with a five degree overhang and have to hit a buzzer to stop the clock. The route is the same in every competition.
速度赛：两名参赛者在 5 度悬垂倾角、15米高的岩壁上比拼速度，冲刺到顶时拍响计时器停止计时。每场比赛的路线都是一样的。
Bouldering: Climbers take turns to complete routes, known as problems, on a 4.5m structure in as few attempts as possible. They can have as many attempts as they like within a set time. Scores are determined by the number of problems either fully or partially solved. The problems are reset between qualification and finals and the climbers are allowed two minutes to observe the problem before the finals.
抱石赛：参赛者在 4.5米高的岩壁上以最少的尝试次数轮流完成线路（称为问题）。他们可以在规定的时间内进行任意次数的尝试。分数由完全或部分解决的线路数量决定。比赛线路在资格赛和决赛之间重置，决赛前允许参赛者观察两分钟。
Lead: Competitors must climb as high as they can up a 15m wall within six minutes in one attempt. The route is changed between qualification and the finals and athletes are allowed to look prior to the finals.
难度赛：参赛者必须在 6 分钟内一次尝试爬上 15米的岩壁。资格赛和决赛使用不同路线，允许运动员在决赛前观看。
How does the Olympic competition work?
东京奥运会的攀岩比赛流程：
Qualification
资格赛
• Each climber competes in speed, bouldering and lead - in that order.
• 每名参赛者都按照速度赛、抱石赛和难度赛的顺序进行比赛。
• In speed, climbers have two attempts - one on each lane - and their fastest time is recorded.
• 在速度赛中，参赛者有两次尝试机会——每条赛道一次——最终成绩为他们的最快时间。
• In bouldering, climbers must take on four boulders with a time limit of five minutes per boulder.
• 在抱石赛中，参赛者必须攀爬四块抱石，每块抱石的时间限制为 5 分钟。
• In lead, climbers compete one at a time and the height they reach is recorded.
• 在难度赛中，参赛者只有一次机会，最终成绩为他们达到的高度。
• Rankings are determined by multiplying the climbers' placings in all three disciplines, and the the top eight advance to the finals.
• 比赛的最终排名由参赛者在所有三个项目中的排名相乘确定，前八名晋级决赛。
Finals
决赛
• The scores are reset before each climber again competes in speed, bouldering and lead - in that order.
• 每位参赛者再次以速度赛、抱石赛和难度赛的顺序进行比赛，决赛前，分数会被重置。
• In speed, the climbers compete in three elimination races to determine their ranking.
• 在速度赛中，参赛者通过三场淘汰赛来确定他们的排名。
• In bouldering, all climbers attempt boulder one in turn before moving to boulder two, and do likewise for the third and final boulder. There is a time limit of four minutes per boulder.
• 在抱石赛中，所有参赛者先进行第一条线路的尝试，之后转至第二条线路，之后再依次进行第三条和最终线路的尝试。每条线路有四分钟的时间限制。
• In lead, climbers compete one at a time and the height they reach is recorded.
• 在难度赛中，参赛者只有一次尝试机会，并记录他们达到的最高高度。
• Rankings are determined by multiplying the climbers' placings in all three disciplines.
• 最终参赛者在所有三个项目中的排名相乘确定他们的排名。
Who are the stars?
有哪些名将参赛？
Shauna Coxsey is the only British athlete to have qualified - and this will be her last competition as she is retiring after the Games.
Shauna Coxsey 是英国队唯一一位获得参赛资格的攀岩运动员——这将是她在奥运会后退役的最后一场比赛。
The 2019 combined and boulder world bronze medallist has had to cope with back pain since having an epidural for knee surgery in 2019.
这位 2019 年世界抱石赛组合铜牌得主因膝关节手术而接受硬膜外麻醉，术后就不得不应付难忍的背痛。
Adam Ondra is the one to watch in the men's event.
在男子选手中值得关注的是Adam Ondra。
The Czech is a five-time world champion but has recently recovered from a shoulder injury and is weaker in the speed discipline.
这位捷克选手曾五次获得世界冠军，但最近刚刚从肩伤中恢复过来，在速度方面表现较弱。
