厚底高跟鞋再度成为时尚，明星们正踩着高耸入云的鞋子引领解封后的新潮流。回溯历史，人们对厚底高跟鞋的狂热经历了几个时代的起起伏伏，“社会动荡和经济压力大”的时期，人们对厚底鞋的兴趣似乎就会增长，这背后又有怎样的原因呢？
'The higher the better': Why platform heels are back in fashion
Heels are making a serious comeback, with stars leading the post-lockdown trend for towering footwear.
高跟鞋正在卷土重来，明星们正踩着高耸入云的鞋子引领解封后的新潮流。
Beyoncé donned a pair of this year's "it" shoe -- six-inch hot pink Versace platform heels -- to an event in August, spurring an internet frenzy over the item.
碧昂丝在 8 月的一次活动中穿上了今年的“it”鞋——6 英寸的粉红色范思哲厚底高跟鞋，立刻在网络上激起了对这款鞋的狂热。
"People just want to feel happy again," said celebrity stylist Nicole Chavez in a video call, adding that high heels, particularly bright-colored and sparkly ones, are part of the greater "mood-enhancing" fashion seen across the board, from clothing to accessories.
“人们只想再次感到快乐，”明星时尚造型师妮可·查韦斯 (Nicole Chavez) 在视频通话中说，并补充说高跟鞋，尤其是亮色和闪亮的高跟鞋，无论对服装还是配饰，都能够起到全面“提升情绪”的作用。
"We're coming out of wearing sneakers and being in comfortable shoes, and so the jump from sneakers to stilettos is a big one," Chavez said. "I feel like the platform, because it is more comfortable, is a great alternative.
查韦斯说：“我们不再穿着运动鞋，穿着舒适的鞋子，所以从运动鞋到细高跟鞋是一个很大的转变。” “我更喜爱厚底鞋，因为它更舒适，是一个很好的选择。
"Right now, it's platform everything. The higher, the chunkier, the better."
“现在，到处都是厚底鞋。越高、越粗越好。”
But women aren't the only ones wearing platforms. Rapper and singer Lil Nas X often wears them with his flamboyant outfits, while Billy Porter paired his sparkling Richard Quinn gown with statement platform boots at The Fashion Awards. "Saturday Night Live" star Bowen Yang spiced up a more traditional facing black suit at the Emmys with silver ones by Brooklyn based Syro, which brands itself as "femme footwear 4 everyone."
但女性并不是唯一穿着厚底鞋的人。说唱歌手兼歌手 Lil Nas X 经常将其与华丽的服装搭配，而比利·波特（Billy Porter）则将他闪亮的理查德·奎因（Richard Quinn）礼服与时尚大赏中的个性厚底靴搭配在一起。 《周六夜现场》明星杨伯文在艾美奖上用银色Syro厚底鞋为一套传统的黑色西装增添了色彩，而Syro的品牌定位为“人人都可以穿的女性鞋子”
Syro co-founder Shaobo Han says that the shoes have become a tool for self-expression as people increasingly challenge and blur gender binaries.
Syro 联合创始人韩少博表示，随着人们越来越多地挑战和模糊性别二元性，鞋子已成为自我表达的工具。
"Being able to display that femininity (on the street) without feeling ashamed is powerful," Han explained.
“能够在不感到羞耻的情况下展示女性气质（在街上）是强大的，”韩解释道。
A sign of the times
时代的标志
The popularity of platforms has risen and fallen throughout history. Ancient platforms existed as far back as 6th century BCE. Over time they evolved, encompassing East Asian wooden styles worn by Manchu women during the Qing dynasty and the lavishly patterned geometric ones of the 16th century, known as "chopines."
厚底鞋的流行在历史上起起落落。古代的厚底鞋可以追溯到公元前 6 世纪。随着时间的推移，它不断发展，包括清朝满族妇女所穿的东亚木制款式和 16 世纪被称为“chopines”的华丽的几何图案款式。
Noblewomen in southern Europe would wear these "wildly high" platforms, increasing the length of the textiles, according to Elizabeth Hemmelseck, the director and senior curator of the BATA Shoe Museum in Toronto. One recorded pair was as high as twenty inches.
多伦多 BATA 鞋类博物馆馆长兼高级负责人伊丽莎白·赫默尔塞克 (Elizabeth Hemmelseck) 表示，南欧的贵族女性会穿着这些“非常高”的厚底鞋，从而增加纺织品的长度。有记录的一对厚底鞋高达二十英寸。
The platform heel -- which combined both a block sole and heel -- is believed to have emerged in 17th century Persia. “The style was worn by Persian horseback riders," said Hemmelseck.
厚底鞋 - 结合了厚底和高跟 - 被认为是在 17 世纪的波斯首先出现的。赫默尔塞克说：“波斯骑兵穿着的就是这种款式。“
Once the high heel was developed, they fell into obscurity before coming back into fashion during the 1930s, 1970s and late 1990s and 2000s. Interest in platforms seems to grow during times of "social unrest and economic stress," Hemmelseck observed.
之后随着高跟鞋的发明，厚底鞋就变得无人问津，然后在 1930 年代、1970 年代和 1990 年代后期和 2000 年代又重新流行起来。赫默尔塞克观察到，在“社会动荡和经济压力大”的时期，人们对厚底鞋的兴趣似乎就会增长。
"Why (is it that) during the Great Depression the shoes go bananas?" she asked. "Why during the oil crisis and the economic woes of the '70s (are) our shoes going crazy again? Is there some commonality?"
“为什么在大萧条期间鞋子的风格会发狂？”她问。 “为什么在石油危机和 70 年代的经济困境期间，我们的鞋子又会再次发疯？这是巧合吗？”
It's a trend that technology company IBM researched in 2011 with a study exploring why heels go higher during these challenging periods, as well as during later crises like the dot-com bubble bursting in the late '90s.
这是科技公司 IBM 在 2011 年的一项研究，探讨了为什么在这些充满挑战的时期，以及在诸如 90 年代末互联网泡沫破灭这些后来的危机中，高跟鞋会变高。
Beyond being a form of escapism, however, platforms again rose in popularity in the 1930s due to pragmatism, Hemmelseck speculated. Many women at the time couldn't afford a luxurious wardrobe, so investing in an expensive platform heel that could be worn with many outfits offered a way to participate in fashion trends through a "single outrageous accessory," she said.
赫默尔塞克推测，除了作为一种逃避现实的形式之外，出于实用主义，厚底鞋在 30年代再次流行起来。她说，当时的许多女性买不起豪华的衣饰，因此投资昂贵的厚底鞋，通过用“单品出位的配饰”参与时尚潮流的方式搭配许多服装。
In the 1970s, the platform heel once again saw a resurgence, with the likes of David Bowie and John Travolta storming the stage with sky-high versions. On stars like Bowie, Travolta and Elton John, the shoes presented "larger questions about the (gender) binary," Hemmelseck added.
1970 年代，厚底鞋跟再次复兴，大卫·鲍伊 (David Bowie) 和约翰·特拉沃尔塔 (John Travolta) 等人穿着超高跟的鞋子冲上舞台。 赫默尔塞克补充说，对于像鲍伊、特拉沃尔塔和埃尔顿约翰这样的明星，这双鞋提出了“关于（性别）二元论的更大问题”。
Men during this period were "talking about this being a revival of (French King) Louis XIV," who was known for his powerful, opulent wardrobe. "Can't we Western men shake off this boring uniform of authority, the business suit and begin to connect with our innate masculinity through how we dress?"
这一时期的男人们“谈论这是（法国国王）路易十四的复兴”，这位国王以其强大而华丽的衣橱而闻名。 “我们西方男人就不能摆脱这种无聊的制服，或者西装，开始通过我们的着装与我们与生俱来的男子气概联系起来吗？”
Platform heels have also developed different connotations over time -- and in some cases symbolize sex work. Over time, it evolved into the clear Lucite platforms of the '90s worn by strippers and pole-dancers, thanks to brands such as Pleaser, which then trickled into the mainstream in the 2000s as stars adopted them into fashion.
随着时间的推移，厚底高跟鞋也产生了不同的含义——在某些情况下，它象征着性工作。随着时间的推移，它演变成 90 年代脱衣舞者和钢管舞者穿着的透明 Lucite 厚底鞋，这要归功于 Pleaser 等品牌，然后随着明星将它们带入时尚，它在21世纪初逐渐成为主流。
As for the platform heels favored at red carpet events this year, Hemmelsack said the style plays off this eroticism as well as the surge in '90s nostalgia.
至于今年红毯活动中备受青睐的厚底高跟鞋，赫默尔塞克表示，这种款式充分利用了这种情色和 90 年代怀旧情绪。
Beyond fashion
超越时尚
In 2021, "dopamine dressing" has become a widely used term in fashion, characterizing the desire for bolder, brighter, sexier outfits.
2021 年，“多巴胺穿衣”风格已成为时尚界广泛使用的术语，代表着人们渴望更大胆、更明亮、更性感的服装。
Some of Syro's creations -- such as ostentatious red platforms and the metallic silver ones worn by Yang -- have coincided with this trend, selling out almost immediately to the surprise of co-founders Han and Henry Bae.
Syro 的一些作品——例如耀眼的红色厚底鞋和杨伯文所穿的金属银色厚底鞋恰逢这一趋势，一上市几乎立即售罄，令联合创始人 Han 和 Henry Bae 感到惊讶。
"People want to feel powerful and (be) powerful. That's something I think platforms really make all of us feel. The moment you put them on, the additional five-inch height that you automatically get, you just start to suddenly see the world differently," they said.
“人们想要感觉强大和（变得）强大。这就是我认为厚底鞋真正让我们所有人感受到的东西。当你穿上它们的那一刻，你自动获得额外的五英寸高度，你只是开始突然看到这个世界不一样，”他们说。
"Living our life as authentically and as joyfully is a protest against the repression that we've been feeling."
“过着真实而快乐的生活是对我们一直感受到的压抑的一种抗议。”
